Behind the beaches and the boutiques, the Amalfi Coast is walking country. Old mule tracks and stone stairways climb between the villages, through lemon groves and along cliffs that fall straight to the sea, and a day on foot up here shows you a side of the coast most visitors never see. These are the walks worth lacing up for, from the famous one to the gentle one.
The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei)
The coast’s signature walk, and deservedly so. The Path of the Gods runs high along the cliffs between Bomerano, above Agerola, and Nocelle, the little village above Positano, roughly seven kilometres of mostly downhill trail with Capri and the Faraglioni rocks floating on the horizon the whole way. It takes around three hours at an easy pace and is graded easy, though there are stone steps and uneven ground, so walk in proper shoes. Do it from Bomerano to Nocelle so the climbing is behind you, then face the long staircase down into Positano or catch the local bus.
The Valle delle Ferriere
Above Amalfi, the Valle delle Ferriere follows old mule tracks up a green, damp valley of waterfalls and ferns to the ruins of the medieval ironworks and paper mills that gave the valley its name. It is a shadier, cooler walk than the exposed cliff paths, a circular route of around eight kilometres that takes a couple of hours, and a nature reserve where a rare prehistoric fern still grows. Lovely on a hot day when the ridge trails bake.
The Path of the Lemons (Sentiero dei Limoni)
The gentle one. An old stone footpath links Minori and Maiori through the terraced lemon groves that give the coast its scent and its liqueur, just two kilometres one way and easy enough for almost anyone. You pass working gardens, little shrines and views back down to the sea, and end in either town ready for lunch. It is the perfect half-day walk when you want the scenery without the effort.
Shorter Walks and Village Stairways
You do not need a whole trail to walk here. The stepped path between Amalfi and Atrani takes five green minutes; Positano to Fornillo is a pretty cliff stroll; and the villages above Positano are linked by stairways with wonderful views. Any of these can be strung together into a morning on foot with a swim at the end.
When to Walk and What to Bring
Spring and autumn are far the best seasons for hiking here, roughly April to June and September to October, when the days are warm rather than punishing. Summer is hot and exposed on the ridge trails, so start early and carry plenty of water. Wear real walking shoes for the loose stone and steps, take sun protection and a hat, and check the local bus times for the end of the Path of the Gods so you are not stranded.
Getting to the Trailheads
Half the challenge of hiking here is simply reaching the start, since the trails begin up in the hills rather than down in the towns. For the Path of the Gods, take the SITA bus from Amalfi up to Agerola and get off at Bomerano, the usual starting point, then walk to Nocelle and either tackle the long staircase down into Positano or catch the small local bus that drops to the main road. Doing it in this direction keeps the route mostly downhill and saves your knees the worst of the climbing.
The Valle delle Ferriere begins on the edge of Amalfi itself, following the valley up behind the town, so it needs no transport at all, only a reasonably early start in summer before the heat builds. The gentle Path of the Lemons runs between Minori and Maiori, two neighbouring towns easily reached by bus or ferry, and can be walked in either direction with lunch at the far end. If you would rather not navigate alone, local guides run the main routes and add the history of the mills, the lemon terraces and the old mule paths. Whichever trail you choose, start early, carry more water than you think you need, and check the last bus back so a wonderful day does not end with a very long walk in the dark.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Path of the Gods difficult?
It is graded easy and mostly downhill from Bomerano to Nocelle, but there are stone steps and uneven ground, so a reasonable level of fitness and proper shoes are needed. Allow about three hours.
Do you need a guide to hike the Amalfi Coast?
No, the main trails are waymarked and easy to follow, and the Path of the Gods and Path of the Lemons are straightforward on your own. A guide is a nice extra for the history and the quieter routes, but not necessary.
When is the best time to hike on the Amalfi Coast?
Spring and autumn, roughly April to June and September to October, for comfortable temperatures. Avoid the middle of the day in high summer, when the exposed cliff trails get very hot.
Fit a walk into your days with the best Amalfi Coast itinerary, pick the right season in when to visit the Amalfi Coast, and read my complete guide to the Amalfi Coast.
