I woke early in the villa, before the house had quite decided to be awake, and lay for a while watching the light come up green through the shutters, listening to the particular silence that belongs to places built high…
Archives for July 2026
How to Get Around the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is strung along one narrow, spectacular, endlessly winding road, and how you move along it will shape your whole trip. The short version: take the ferry when you can, the bus when you must, and think very…
The Best Amalfi Coast Itinerary: 5 to 7 Days
The mistake most people make on the Amalfi Coast is trying to sleep somewhere new every night and spending half the trip dragging luggage up and down the coast road. Do the opposite. Pick a base, unpack once, and let…
Where to Stay on the Amalfi Coast
Choosing where to sleep on the Amalfi Coast matters more than almost anywhere, because the town you pick sets the price, the pace and how easily you can move. The trick is to base yourself in one place that fits…
Hiking on the Amalfi Coast
Behind the beaches and the boutiques, the Amalfi Coast is walking country. Old mule tracks and stone stairways climb between the villages, through lemon groves and along cliffs that fall straight to the sea, and a day on foot up…
The Best Photo Spots on the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is one of the most photogenic places in Italy, but its best pictures come from a handful of specific vantage points, and knowing exactly where to stand and when is the whole game. These are the spots…
When to Visit the Amalfi Coast: A Month-by-Month Guide
The Amalfi Coast has a short, glorious season and a long, sleepy off-season, and picking the right window changes everything, the weather, the crowds, the prices, even whether the ferries are running. The short answer is late May to June…
Under the Roman Sun
I woke before the heat had settled over the city and went out to meet its oldest streets while they were still half asleep. Rome in the early morning feels like another place entirely. The shutters remained mostly closed, cafés…
The House Above Florence
I came to Florence the slow way, as I always seem to, and I came to a house rather than a hotel. My aunt takes a villa in the hills above the city most summers, an old place with faded…
The Best Things to Do in Rome
No city on earth has more unmissable sights crammed into a walkable centre than Rome. That is a blessing and a small danger, because it is easy to spend your visit sprinting from one monument to the next and never…
Where to Stay in Rome: The Best Neighbourhoods
In Rome, the neighbourhood you choose matters more than the hotel itself, because each district gives you a completely different city to wake up in. The good news is that the historic centre is compact and walkable, so almost any…
The Sacred and the Ordinary: A Day Across Rome’s River
On the third morning, I crossed the river before the heat. Rome was not awake yet, or not entirely. The shutters were still closed along the streets, and the light on the Tiber was pale, almost without colour. A few…
