If you do one walk on the entire Amalfi Coast, make it the Path of the Gods, the Sentiero degli Dei, a high mountain trail that runs along the cliffs between the village of Bomerano and the hamlet of Nocelle above Positano. For a couple of hours you walk with nothing between you and the sea but a few hundred metres of open air, the whole coast falling away beneath your feet, the terraced vineyards and lemon groves clinging to the slopes, and the islands of Li Galli and the silhouette of Capri floating on the horizon. It is not a hard hike, but it is a spectacular one, and it is the memory most people carry home. Here is everything you need to walk it well.
The Route: Bomerano to Nocelle
The classic and easiest way to walk the Path of the Gods is from Bomerano, in the mountain village of Agerola at about 650 metres, to Nocelle at around 430 metres. Walking this direction means you are heading gently downhill and, crucially, facing the best views the whole way, out toward Positano, Capri and the open sea, rather than climbing uphill with the scenery at your back. The main trail is roughly 6 to 8 kilometres and takes most people two to three hours at an unhurried pace, and you will want it unhurried, because you will stop constantly to look.
The trailhead is at Piazza Paolo Capasso in Bomerano; look for the brown sign reading Sentiero degli Dei and follow the red-and-white waymarks painted on rocks and walls. The path is mostly flat or descending, with a few short rocky climbs and one or two sets of steps, and it is well marked throughout. Along the way you pass old shepherds’ caves, abandoned stone farmhouses, a small grotto, and terraces where farmers still work the near-vertical land as they have for centuries. In a couple of stretches the trail narrows and runs close to the drop with only a low wall or nothing at all between you and the view, so it is not a walk for anyone badly troubled by heights, but the exposed sections are short and the footing is good.
Getting Down to Positano from Nocelle
When you reach Nocelle you have two choices. The romantic one is to descend the roughly 1,700 stone steps that zigzag down through lemon groves and past garden gates into Positano, a knee-testing thirty to forty-five minutes with the village rising to meet you the whole way. The kinder one is to catch the little local bus from Nocelle down to Positano, which costs around 1.30 euro and runs roughly every hour. After a couple of hours on the trail there is no shame at all in taking the bus, especially in the heat, and I have happily done both depending on how my legs felt. Stop for a cold drink or a plate of pasta in Nocelle first if you have time; the tiny terraced restaurants there have some of the best views of any lunch on the coast.
How to Get to the Start
You are aiming for Bomerano. From Amalfi, take the SITA Sud bus from Piazza Flavio Gioia toward Agerola and get off at Bomerano; the ride is about 35 to 40 minutes and costs around 1.30 euro, with tickets bought before you board from a tabacchi or newsstand. From Positano, the simplest approach is to take a bus or ferry to Amalfi first and change onto the Agerola bus, so allow time for the connection and check the SITA timetable the night before, because services are less frequent than you would like and missing one can cost you an hour. Many people find it worth booking a guide or a small-group transfer that handles the logistics and drops you at the trailhead, which removes the only genuinely stressful part of the day.
When to Walk It
Spring and autumn are ideal: the light is soft and clear, the wildflowers are out, and the temperature is perfect for walking. In summer, set off first thing in the morning, because the trail is almost entirely exposed with no shade at all, and the midday sun on an open cliff is genuinely punishing. Avoid the walk in rain or low cloud, both because the rocks turn slippery and because the entire point of the Path of the Gods is the view, and there is nothing to see from inside a cloud. Whatever the season, the early start also buys you the trail before the day-tour groups arrive, and a quiet path makes a real difference.
What to Bring
Wear proper shoes with grip, trainers at the very least and light hiking shoes ideally, because the path is rocky and uneven throughout. Carry more water than you think you need, at least a litre per person in summer, along with a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen, since there is nowhere to hide from the sun. Bring a little cash for the bus and a snack or a picnic, take a light layer for the breeze at altitude, and keep your phone or camera charged, because you will take more photographs than you can imagine. Leave the heavy bag and the flip-flops at the hotel; this is a walk to travel light on.
Is It Worth It?
Without hesitation, yes. The Path of the Gods is the single best half-day you can spend on the Amalfi Coast and one of the great coastal walks in Europe. It asks only moderate fitness and a head that does not mind a little height, and in return it gives you a view you will remember long after the beaches and the restaurants have blurred together. Walk it from Bomerano in the morning, take your time, eat lunch in Nocelle, and let the coast do the rest.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the Path of the Gods and how hard is it?
The main trail from Bomerano to Nocelle is roughly 6 to 8 kilometres and takes two to three hours at a relaxed pace. It is rated easy to moderate, mostly flat or downhill, but the path is rocky and narrow in places and runs close to the edge, so it suits anyone of reasonable fitness who is comfortable with some exposure to height.
Which direction should you walk it?
Walk from Bomerano to Nocelle. You descend gently and face the views toward Positano and Capri the whole way. Doing it in reverse means a steady uphill climb with the best scenery behind you.
Do you have to walk down the steps to Positano?
No. From Nocelle you can descend roughly 1,700 steps into Positano in about 30 to 45 minutes, or take the local bus down for around 1.30 euro. After the hike, the bus is a perfectly respectable choice.
When is the best time to hike the Path of the Gods?
Spring and autumn are best for comfortable temperatures and clear light. In summer, start early to beat the heat, as the trail is fully exposed with no shade. Avoid it in rain or low cloud, when the rocks are slippery and the views disappear.
Is the Path of the Gods safe for beginners?
Yes, for most people. It is a moderate walk on a well-marked trail, not a technical climb. The main cautions are the exposed drop in a few short sections, the rocky footing, and the summer sun, so wear proper shoes, carry water, and take a guide if the logistics or the height worry you.
When you come down into the village, cool off at the best beaches in Positano, plan dinner with my Positano restaurants guide, and see my complete guide to Positano for everything else.
