There is a version of Capri that disappears every morning. Most people never meet her. They arrive with the first ferries carrying cameras, linen hats, reservations, and plans. They inherit an island already awake, already performing itself, already smiling for…
Under the Same Sky
The invitations arrived two days earlier. A friend of a friend had invited us onto a yacht off the Amalfi Coast. There would be dinner. Music. Fireworks after sunset. I almost declined. There is something about celebrations that can make…
The Pink Beach Club
The beach clubs in Maiori are not all the same color. This was the first thing I noticed, arriving the evening before, watching the coastline settle into dusk from the window of a taxi that had taken longer than it…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Amalfi
Amalfi There is a particular confusion that afflicts most visitors to this part of Italy. They say they are going to the Amalfi Coast. They book a hotel in Positano, take photographs from a terrace above the sea, eat a…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Maiori and Minori
The Eastern Shore: Where the Amalfi Coast Stops Performing The road east from Amalfi tells you immediately that something is about to change. The cliff face loosens its grip on the sea. The terraced lemon groves flatten into something more…
Positively, Positano
The boats were already out when I got down to the water. Not fishing, not yet, just sitting there in the pink light with their ropes slack, Carpielene and Coilaboha and the others, names painted on hulls that had clearly…
