There is a particular light on Lake Como in the late afternoon, when the sun drops behind the western ridge and the water turns the colour of pewter and old gold at the same time. The ferries slow down. The…
Bellagio – the First Day
There is a particular quiet that comes off a lake. It is not the quiet of the sea, which is really only distance. It is closer than that, held in by the mountains, the way a room holds a conversation…
Portofino – the Third Day
When I woke this morning, I decided not to chase anything. The sea would still be there tomorrow, the harbour would still be beautiful, and the paths would wait as they always have. Some places ask you to see more….
Portofino – the Second Day
Some days you give to the town, and some you give to the sea. This one belonged to the water from the moment I woke, when the light on the ceiling was already moving the way it only does when…
The Complete Guide to Portofino
There is a moment, coming around the last curve of the coast road, when Portofino simply appears. One second there is only sea and green hillside, and the next there it is, that impossible little stack of ochre and rose…
Portofino – the First Day
You arrive in Portofino, and it is smaller than you imagined, and then, almost immediately, it feels exactly the right size. The road ends because there is nowhere left for it to go. The hills fold themselves gently into the…
