I have arrived in Milan more ways than I can count: bleary off a long-haul into Malpensa, breezing in on the M4 from Linate with an hour to spare before dinner, and rolling under the great iron canopy of Centrale on a Frecciarossa from Rome with a coffee still warm in my hand. Milan is one of the easiest major cities in Europe to reach, and, once you are here, one of the easiest to move through on foot and by metro.
The trick is knowing which door to come in by, because the city has three airports scattered at very different distances, and the right choice can save you an hour and a good deal of money. Here is everything I have learned about getting to Milan and finding your feet once you do.
Malpensa (MXP), the long-haul airport
Malpensa is Milan’s largest airport and the one most intercontinental flights use. It sits about 50 kilometres north-west of the city, which is further out than it feels on a map, so plan for a proper transfer rather than a quick hop.
My default is the Malpensa Express, the direct train run by Trenord. It leaves from both terminals and reaches Milano Centrale in roughly 51 minutes, or Milano Cadorna in about 43. Trains run from around 5am to 11pm, usually every half hour, and a single fare is about 15 euros.
If you land late or very early, the shuttle coaches run to Piazza Luigi di Savoia beside Centrale for around 10 euros, taking 50 to 60 minutes depending on traffic. They are the budget option and the fallback when the train is not running.
A taxi from Malpensa into central Milan is a fixed flat fare of 110 euros, regulated and displayed at the rank, so you need not fear the meter. Split between three or four with luggage, at midnight, it can be worth every cent.
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Linate (LIN), the airport I love
Linate is the little one, and my favourite. It is barely 7 kilometres east of the centre, which used to mean a fiddly bus and now, gloriously, means the metro.
The M4 blue line runs straight from a station inside the terminal to San Babila, a genuine city-centre stop, in about 12 minutes, and on to the Duomo in around 15. The fare is the standard 2.20 euro ATM ticket, the same one you would use for any metro ride in town. Service runs from roughly 5.40am to half past midnight. It is, without exaggeration, one of the best airport connections in Europe. A taxi from Linate to the centre runs around 20 to 25 euros and takes ten minutes or so with light traffic.
Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY), the budget gateway
Bergamo is where most low-cost carriers land, and although it markets itself as Milan, it sits about 45 kilometres to the north-east, in a different city entirely.
There is no train from the airport itself, so the coach is the way in. Several operators run to Milano Centrale for roughly 8 to 12 euros, taking 50 to 60 minutes, with departures every 20 to 30 minutes from early morning until around midnight. A taxi from Bergamo into Milan is a different order of expense, easily 90 to 120 euros, so unless you are in a group I would leave that to the coach.
Arriving by train at Milano Centrale
If you are already in Italy, the train is almost always the civilised choice, and Milan’s arrival hall is a piece of theatre in itself: a vast 1930s cathedral of stone and steel that is worth pausing under before you dash for the metro.
Milano Centrale is the hub for high-speed services, run by both Trenitalia (the red Frecciarossa) and its rival Italo. From Rome the fastest trains take about 2 hours 55 minutes. From Florence it is around 1 hour 45. From Venice roughly 2 hours 15 to 2 hours 30, and from Turin as little as an hour. Book a few weeks ahead and advance fares can start around 20 to 30 euros; leave it to the day and you may pay 60 to 90. I always compare Trenitalia and Italo on the same dates, as they undercut each other constantly.
One note: some services use Milano Porta Garibaldi rather than Centrale, so check your ticket. Both sit on the metro, so neither is a problem.
Getting around the city
Here is the good news. You do not need a car in Milan, and I would gently discourage you from having one. The historic core is compact and made for walking, and the public transport, run by ATM, is excellent.
The metro has five lines, colour-coded and simple: M1 red, M2 green, M3 yellow, M4 blue and M5 lilac. Above ground, Milan’s trams are a delight, especially the vintage orange 1920s carriages that still rattle through the centre.
A single ATM ticket costs 2.20 euros and is valid for 90 minutes, so you can ride the metro then hop a tram on the same ticket. A daily ticket is about 7.60 euros and pays for itself quickly. You can tap a contactless card or phone straight on the reader, which is what I do, and it caps automatically at the daily rate. Mostly, though, I walk.
A word on arriving by car
If you insist on driving, know that central Milan is ringed by Area C, a congestion charge zone covering the historic centre within the old walls. Entering during charging hours costs 7.50 euros for a standard car, and the boundary is camera-enforced. There is also a wider low-emission Area B that bars the most polluting vehicles. Parking in the centre is scarce and dear. My honest advice: if you have a car for exploring the lakes, park it at your hotel or on the edge of town and leave it there.
Read also: where to stay in Milan and my favourite day trips from Milan, all gathered in Victoria’s complete guide to Milan.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which airport is best for Milan?
Linate, if your airline flies there. It is closest to the centre and the M4 metro puts you at San Babila in about 12 minutes. Malpensa handles most long-haul arrivals and is well connected by the Malpensa Express train, while Bergamo is the budget-airline gateway, further out and reached by coach.
How do I get from Malpensa to the centre of Milan?
Take the Malpensa Express train to Milano Centrale or Cadorna, about 51 minutes for around 15 euros, running roughly every half hour. A shuttle coach to Centrale costs about 10 euros, and a taxi is a fixed flat fare of 110 euros into the centre.
Do I need a car in Milan?
No. The centre is walkable, the metro and trams are quick and cheap, and driving means dealing with the Area C congestion charge and scarce, costly parking. Keep a car only if you are venturing out to the lakes, and even then leave it parked while you are in the city.
