Where you sleep in Naples matters more than in most cities, because the character changes so completely from one quarter to the next. A few streets can be the difference between waking to a sea view and church bells or…
Portofino – the Second Day
Some days you give to the town, and some you give to the sea. This one belonged to the water from the moment I woke, when the light on the ceiling was already moving the way it only does when…
Getting Around Tuscany
I will tell you the single most important thing about a Tuscany trip before anything else, because it changes everything: you need a car. Not for Florence, and not for Siena, but for the Tuscany of your imagination, the one…
The Best Towns in Tuscany
Tuscany keeps its treasure in its small towns. Florence gets the fame, and it deserves it, but the deeper magic of this region is in the hilltop villages, each one a little walled world of golden stone and Renaissance squares…
A Guide to Tuscan Wine
You cannot really separate Tuscany from its wine. The vineyards are the landscape, the harvest is the calendar, and every hilltop town seems to have grown up around a cellar. You do not need to be an expert to love…
The Best Photo Spots in Tuscany
Some landscapes are beautiful. Tuscany is composed. The rolling hills, the lone cypresses, the farmhouses set just so on a distant ridge, it all looks arranged, as if a painter got there first and the land grew to match. Most…
