I did not go anywhere today, and it may have been the best decision I made all week. After the islands, a person needs a day like this. You cannot keep arriving at wonders. The lake seems to understand that,…
Lake Maggiore
The Islands Keep Their Own Time
The first ferry of the morning is nearly empty, and that is the secret nobody tells you. I have it almost to myself, a scarf against the cool off the water, a paper cup of coffee going lukewarm in my…
The Best Towns on Lake Maggiore
There is a particular kind of hesitation I feel every time the train from Milan pulls towards the water and Lake Maggiore begins to unfold on my right. It is not one lake so much as a long ribbon of…
How to Get to Lake Maggiore and Get Around by Boat
Arriving at Lake Maggiore is genuinely one of the easier journeys in the Italian lakes, and once you are here you can leave the car keys in your pocket for most of a trip. The lake sits close to Milan…
The Best Photo Spots on Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore holds a particular kind of light. It is the longest stretch of water I know where the drama of the Alps meets the softness of an Italian garden, and that contrast is exactly what makes it so photogenic….
The Best Time to Visit Lake Maggiore
Some questions announce themselves the moment you ask them, and “when should I go to Lake Maggiore?” is one. The honest answer is late April to early October, with the gardens quietly deciding the calendar for everyone else. This is…
Where to Eat on Lake Maggiore
A morning on Lake Maggiore has a rhythm, and much of it is decided at the table. The water here has fed the villages for centuries, and you can still taste that history in a plate of perch or a…
Where to Stay on Lake Maggiore
Choosing where to sleep on Lake Maggiore is really a question of what you want to wake up to. The lake stretches for some sixty-five kilometres between Piedmont and Ticino, and each town along its shore keeps its own particular…
The Perfect Lake Maggiore Itinerary
There is a particular light on Lake Maggiore in the hour after breakfast, when the mist lifts off the water and the Borromean Islands seem to float rather than sit on the surface. I have come back to this corner…
The Best Things to Do on Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore has a way of rearranging your priorities. You arrive with a list and a schedule, and within a day the lake has quietly persuaded you that the only sensible plan is to follow the ferries, chase the light…
The Borromean Islands: A Complete Guide
Some places hold their reputation lightly, and then there are the Borromean Islands, three small scraps of land in the Borromean Gulf that have been drawing travellers across the water for centuries and have never once disappointed me. I have…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Lake Maggiore
There are three great lakes at the foot of the Italian Alps, and everyone has an opinion about which one is best. Como gets the film stars, Garda gets the families and the windsurfers, and Maggiore, quietly, gets the gardens….
