I had not meant to cry at the opera, and I am fairly sure I was not the only one caught out. We came into Piazza Bra in the last of the evening, when the sky had gone the colour…
Verona
The Best Day Trips from Verona
One of the quiet joys of Verona is how much lies within easy reach of it. The city sits at a crossroads of the north, on the high-speed line between Milan and Venice, a half-hour from Lake Garda, with vineyards…
The Best Photo Spots in Verona
Verona is one of those cities that photographs almost by accident, all warm marble and red brick and a green river looping through the middle of it, but the truly memorable images take a little knowing, the right corner at…
The Best Time to Visit Verona
Verona has a different face for every season, and the right time to come depends entirely on what you want the trip to be. For an opera under the stars there is only one window. For mild days and thin…
How to Get to Verona
Verona is one of the easiest cities in Italy to reach, which is part of why it makes such a good base for the north. It sits squarely on the high-speed railway between Milan and Venice, it has its own…
A Verona Itinerary: One to Four Days
Verona is a city that rewards a plan only so that you can then abandon it. Everything worth seeing sits inside one loop of the river, so the point of an itinerary here is not to march but to sequence…
Where to Eat in Verona
Verona eats the way it lives, warmly and without fuss, on food tied so closely to the land and the river that you could almost draw a map of the region from a few good dinners. This is the capital…
Where to Stay in Verona
Where you sleep in Verona matters more than in most cities, because the whole pleasure of the place is its early mornings and late evenings, the Arena at dawn before the crowds and the squares at midnight after them. Stay…
The Best Things to Do in Verona
Verona is small enough to walk across in twenty minutes and rich enough to keep you busy for days, which is a rare and wonderful combination. Everything worth seeing sits inside a single loop of the river, so a day…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Verona
There are cities that ask you to admire them and cities that simply take you in, and Verona has always belonged, for me, to the second and rarer kind. It sits in a slow bend of the River Adige on…










