Verona is one of those cities that photographs almost by accident, all warm marble and red brick and a green river looping through the middle of it, but the truly memorable images take a little knowing, the right corner at…
Archives for August 2026
The Best Time to Visit Verona
Verona has a different face for every season, and the right time to come depends entirely on what you want the trip to be. For an opera under the stars there is only one window. For mild days and thin…
How to Get to Verona
Verona is one of the easiest cities in Italy to reach, which is part of why it makes such a good base for the north. It sits squarely on the high-speed railway between Milan and Venice, it has its own…
A Verona Itinerary: One to Four Days
Verona is a city that rewards a plan only so that you can then abandon it. Everything worth seeing sits inside one loop of the river, so the point of an itinerary here is not to march but to sequence…
Where to Eat in Verona
Verona eats the way it lives, warmly and without fuss, on food tied so closely to the land and the river that you could almost draw a map of the region from a few good dinners. This is the capital…
Where to Stay in Verona
Where you sleep in Verona matters more than in most cities, because the whole pleasure of the place is its early mornings and late evenings, the Arena at dawn before the crowds and the squares at midnight after them. Stay…
The Best Things to Do in Verona
Verona is small enough to walk across in twenty minutes and rich enough to keep you busy for days, which is a rare and wonderful combination. Everything worth seeing sits inside a single loop of the river, so a day…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Verona
There are cities that ask you to admire them and cities that simply take you in, and Verona has always belonged, for me, to the second and rarer kind. It sits in a slow bend of the River Adige on…
Warm Water and Old Stones: A Slow Day in Sirmione
There are days made for doing very little, and today Sirmione handed me one without my having to ask. I had woken with no plan beyond the vague intention to catch the little ferry, and by mid-morning I had abandoned…
The Most Beautiful Photo Spots on Lake Garda
There are lakes you visit and lakes you remember, and Garda has always belonged firmly to the second kind for me. It is the largest of the Italian lakes, and it wears its size beautifully, shifting from the soft, olive-scented…
Where to Eat on Lake Garda
There is a particular kind of hunger that Lake Garda gives you. It arrives around midday, when the light comes off the water in silver sheets, and the scent of grilling fish drifts up from some harbour trattoria you have…
The Best Time to Visit Lake Garda
I have arrived at Lake Garda in the flat white heat of August, and I have arrived on a soft March morning when the mountains still wore their snow, and I can tell you that the lake rewards you differently…
