Naples rewards the traveller who gives it time. It is tempting to treat the city as a one-night stopover on the way to Capri or the Amalfi Coast, but that is a mistake; Naples is one of the great cities of Europe, and it also happens to be the perfect base for the whole bay. So here is how I would spend three days, deep in the city and out among the ruins and islands, built to give you the best of Naples without ever feeling rushed. Stretch it to four or five and you can add the Amalfi Coast; trim it to two and you still get the heart of it.
The Shape of It
Base yourself in Naples the whole time, ideally in Chiaia, the seafront or the historic centre, and use the city’s easy trains and ferries to reach the sights around the bay. Spend your first day in the city itself, the second on the great archaeological sites, and the third out on the water. Below is the three-day version; add days at the end for the coast or the other islands.
Day 1: The City
Give your first day entirely to Naples. Start deep in the centro storico: walk the length of Spaccanapoli, see the extraordinary Veiled Christ in the Cappella Sansevero (book ahead), go down into Underground Naples, and wander the nativity-workshop lane of San Gregorio Armeno. Have a proper Neapolitan pizza for lunch on Via dei Tribunali, at Sorbillo or Di Matteo, and a warm sfogliatella after. In the afternoon, ride the funicular up to Vomero for the Certosa di San Martino and Castel Sant’Elmo, and take in the great view over the city and bay as the light softens. Come down for an evening stroll along the Lungomare to the Castel dell’Ovo at sunset, and dinner by the sea. For the full city, see my guide to the best things to do in Naples.
Day 2: Pompeii and Vesuvius
A day among the ruins. Take the Circumvesuviana train out to Pompeii first thing, before the heat, and spend the morning and early afternoon walking the buried Roman city, ideally with a guide or audio guide to bring it to life. If you have the energy, stop at Herculaneum on the way back, or head up to the crater of Vesuvius itself in the afternoon for the view down into the volcano and out over everything. Come home tired and happy, and reward yourself with pizza fritta and a quiet dinner. Tip: see the finest Pompeii treasures at Naples’s archaeological museum, the MANN, either before this day or on a spare morning, and the ruins mean far more.
Day 3: The Islands or the Coast
Escape to the sea. Take an early ferry from Molo Beverello to Capri for glamour and cliffs, to green, spa-scented Ischia, or to tiny, pastel Procida, the most unspoilt and, to me, the most charming. Spend the day walking, swimming, and lunching by the water, and take a late-afternoon ferry back with the light on the bay. Alternatively, ride the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento for a taste of the Amalfi Coast. Back in Naples, have a final, celebratory dinner; you have earned it.
If You Have More Time
Four days: add a full day on the Amalfi Coast from Sorrento, or a second island, so you are not choosing between Capri and Procida.
Five days: give the Amalfi Coast two days, ideally with a night in Positano, Amalfi or Ravello, and come back to Naples for your departure. Or add a quieter city day for the MANN museum, Piazza del Plebiscito and the shops of Chiaia.
If You Only Have Two Days
Do Day 1 in the city and Day 2 at Pompeii, and simply accept that the islands will have to wait for next time, which they will, because almost everyone comes back.
A Few Rules for the Trip
Book your Veiled Christ slot, your Vesuvius crater ticket and your island ferries ahead in high season. Start early every day to beat the heat and the crowds, and take the long Neapolitan lunch and a rest in the hottest part of the afternoon. Do not drive; the trains and ferries reach everything. Keep your bag close on the Circumvesuviana and around the station. And leave room, always, for the unplanned: the espresso in a loud little square, the alley you did not mean to turn down. In Naples, those are the moments you will remember most.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do you need in Naples?
Three days is ideal: one for the city itself, one for Pompeii and Vesuvius, and one for the islands or a taste of the Amalfi Coast. Two days covers the city and Pompeii if you are short on time. Four or five days lets you add the Amalfi Coast or a second island without rushing, using Naples as your base throughout.
What should I do on my first day in Naples?
Spend it in the city: walk Spaccanapoli and the historic centre, see the Veiled Christ, go into Underground Naples, and visit San Gregorio Armeno. Eat a proper Neapolitan pizza for lunch, then ride the funicular to Vomero for the San Martino viewpoint, and finish with a sunset stroll along the Lungomare to the Castel dell’Ovo.
Can I visit Pompeii and Capri from Naples in the same trip?
Yes, easily, on separate days. Naples is the perfect base: the Circumvesuviana train reaches Pompeii in under forty minutes, and fast ferries from Molo Beverello reach Capri in about fifty minutes. Give Pompeii its own day and the island its own day rather than trying to combine them, and you will enjoy both far more.
Is Naples worth visiting, or just a stopover?
Naples is absolutely worth visiting in its own right; it is one of the great cities of Europe, with world-class art, extraordinary food, and an energy like nowhere else, and it also happens to be the ideal base for Pompeii, Vesuvius and the islands. Treating it as a mere stopover for the Amalfi Coast sells short one of Italy’s most rewarding cities.
What is the best way to plan a Naples trip?
Base yourself in Naples the whole time, in Chiaia, the seafront or the historic centre, and use the trains and ferries to reach the sights around the bay. Spend one day in the city, one on the archaeological sites, and one on the water, booking key tickets and ferries ahead in high season, and starting early each day to beat the heat and crowds.
Read also: The Best Things to Do in Naples | Day Trips from Naples | The Complete Guide to Naples
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