Capri packs an enormous amount into a tiny island, and it is easy to spend a whole visit shuffling in queues if you do not have a plan. This is the itinerary I would give a friend: a well-paced day…
The Best Beaches and Swimming Spots in Capri
Let me set expectations first, because it saves disappointment: Capri is not a sandy-beach island. It is a mountain rising sheer out of the sea, so what you get instead is pebbly coves, rocky ledges, beach clubs on wooden platforms,…
Anacapri and Monte Solaro: The Quieter Side of Capri
Most day-trippers never make it past Capri town, and that is exactly why you should. Up the mountain, reached by a hair-raising bus ride or an open-top taxi, Anacapri is the island’s second village: quieter, whiter, lower-key, and home to…
The Morning the Sea Said Goodbye
There is a particular kind of morning you only get on your last one somewhere. You wake before the alarm, the light already warm against the shutters, and instead of a list of things to see you have only one…
Where to Stay in Cinque Terre
Where you sleep in Cinque Terre shapes the whole trip, because the magic here happens at the edges of the day. Stay in one of the villages and you get the golden hour after the day-trippers leave and the early…
Hiking Cinque Terre: The Blue Trail and Via dell’Amore
Walking is half the reason to come to Cinque Terre. The five villages are linked by a network of paths cut into the terraces above the sea, and covering even one section on foot turns a train-hop tour into a…
