Syracuse is several cities standing in each other’s footprints, and only one of them still has a job. I went to the market on the second morning because I had run out of fruit and stayed for two hours because…
Cagliari, and the Salt Behind the Beach
Nobody flies to Sardinia to see Cagliari. They land here and they are driven away, north, to the coast that was built to be photographed. I stayed. The city is on a ridge of limestone and everything about it follows…
The Complete Guide to Cagliari
Cagliari is a working capital city that happens to have eight kilometres of white sand inside its bus network, a flamingo colony behind the beach, and a Bronze Age civilisation an hour up the road. It is not a resort….
Ostuni, and the Trees That Were Here First
I went inland, which is the direction nobody drives. Everyone here goes down. Down to the coves, down to the sea, down through the olives with the windows open and the radio on, and the olives are the thing you…
The Morning I Drove Inland
Ten minutes. That is the whole distance, and I want to put it down before anything else, because it is the only fact in this entry that matters. Ten minutes from a road where the cars cost more than houses,…
The Complete Guide to the Costa Smeralda, Sardinia
There is a number that explains this coast better than any photograph of it, and almost nobody quotes it. Less than four per cent of the land is built on. That is not an accident of geography or a happy…
