A late-summer evening in the city that never quite welcomes you, arriving in the cool of dusk for fifteen minutes alone with The Last Supper.
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Milan
Milan does not flirt. Other Italian cities lean in with their beauty, all golden light and postcard views, and you fall for them before you have unpacked. Milan makes you work a little, and I have come to love it…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Bergamo
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Bergamo Most people meet Bergamo by accident. They fly into a low-cost airport that calls itself Milan, climb straight onto a bus toward the city an hour away, and never once turn to look at the…
Dante’s Exile
What happens when the place that made you no longer wants you? I found myself turning that question over this morning in a quiet corner of Verona, standing beneath a pale marble figure that almost everyone walks straight past. They…
A Warmth in the Stone – The Dolomites
Nobody warns you that these mountains keep a secret hour. All day the Dolomites stand pale and severe, grey rock against a hard blue sky, handsome in the way a cathedral is handsome, which is to say a little forbidding….
Victoria’s Complete Guide to the Dolomites
There is a moment, most evenings in the Dolomites, when the grey rock catches fire. The peaks that stood pale and severe all afternoon turn rose, then coral, then a deep burning red, and for a few minutes the whole…
