We only meant to stay one day. The plan was a single afternoon and then the road back. Then the team found a villa two streets from the square, nobody made a serious case for leaving, and by evening it…
Santorini – Blue Hour in Megalochori
It is six in the morning in Megalochori, and the light has not decided what it is going to do yet. The houses are not white at this hour. They are the colour of skimmed milk, and the shadows between…
The Band They Started by Accident – Corfu
I heard the clarinet before I knew where it was coming from. Not music exactly. Scales. Up, down, then up again. Somewhere above me, a child was getting almost to the same place each time and tightening up just before…
Santorini – The Island Behind the View
I kept my promise and left the hotel. I went the wrong way on purpose. Everyone who comes here goes to the rim. The caldera is the reason Santorini is famous, and every hotel, every terrace, every infinity pool seems…
Nobody Prunes Them – Corfu
You land on the water here, or near enough that your body believes it. The runway sits out in a lagoon on a strip of made ground, and the approach comes in low over it with the sea on both…
Santorini – The Day I Did Not Leave
I said I would go down to the water. I went as far as the pool. This was not the plan, and I would like it on record that I intended to go. I had packed the bag the night…






