The bus to Filoti leaves early and climbs almost the entire way, and by the time it put me down the air had changed. Inland Naxos is not the island the ferry sells you. It is green in the folds,…
A Door With Nothing Behind It – Naxos
The crossing from Mykonos takes about forty minutes, and for most of it there is water, the noise of the engine, and a man near the bow explaining something to his son with both hands. Then Naxos comes up on…
The Things I Keep Choosing – Mykonos
I woke before the alarm this morning. This almost never happens when I have somewhere I am supposed to be, and happens constantly when I do not. The room was still blue. Not dark exactly. That hour before sunrise when…
Everything Here Is White Except the Doors – Mykonos
There is a door at the top of the old town that is exactly the red I had on. I would like to tell you I planned it. I did not. I got dressed in a dark room at eleven…
The Light Here Does Half the Work – Mykonos
I was supposed to go to Delos today. I did not go to Delos. I have been telling people for three days that Delos is the reason I came, and when I said it, it was true. There is a…
The Last Warm Days of Mykonos
The ferry from Santorini takes a little under three hours, and the wind arrives before the island does. You feel it first as a change in the boat. Then everybody standing outside stops trying to hold their hair down and…
