The beaches of Amalfi are not the reason most people fall in love with the town, and I think it is only fair to say so at the start. The town beach is functional, a working strip of sand between…
Supporting Guide
How to Get to Amalfi
Everyone who asks me how to get to Amalfi is quietly hoping the answer is simple, and it is, once you accept the first truth of this coast: Amalfi has no airport and no railway station. You cannot land here…
Where to Stay in Amalfi
The question of where to stay in Amalfi is really a question about how you want to spend your days, and my answer, after many returns, is that Amalfi is the most rational base on this coast. It sits in…
Where to Eat in Amalfi
The question of where to eat in Amalfi has a short answer and a long one, and the short answer is that you should walk away from the cathedral before you sit down anywhere. The town is small, folded into…
The Duomo di Amalfi: Visiting the Cathedral of Sant’Andrea
There is a moment, when you first look up at the Duomo di Amalfi from the piazza below, when the town seems to hold its breath. The Cathedral of Sant’Andrea rises above the square on its long flight of steps,…
The Best Things to Do in Amalfi
The best things to do in Amalfi are not the things the ferries deposit you in front of. Most visitors arrive at the harbour, walk the length of the main street, buy a limoncello they will never open, and leave…
Victoria’s Guide to Varenna, Lake Como
Varenna is the quiet, painterly side of Lake Como. My guide to the lovers’ walk, Villa Monastero, the train from Milan, where to stay and eat.
Victoria’s Guide to Bellagio, Lake Como
Bellagio, the pearl of Lake Como. Victoria’s guide to Villa Melzi, the stepped lanes, Punta Spartivento, ferries, hotels and where to eat.
The Best Towns on Lake Como
A calm, honest guide to the best towns on Lake Como, from romantic Bellagio to painterly Varenna, and how to choose the one that suits you.
The Best Time to Visit Lake Como
When to visit Lake Como, from the spring blooms and quiet June to golden September and the winter closures. A season by season guide to timing your trip.
Where to Eat on Lake Como
A calm, opinionated guide to eating on Lake Como, from missoltini and perch risotto to Michelin terraces, Bellagio trattorias and lakeside aperitivo.
Where to Stay on Lake Como (by Town and by Budget)
Where to stay on Lake Como, sorted by base town and budget, from iconic five-star villas to family-run hotels and honest value in Menaggio.
