I woke in Naples before I meant to. The shutters were still open from the night before. I had left them that way on purpose, too greedy for the city to close it out, and so the morning came in…
italian summer
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Maiori and Minori
The Eastern Shore: Where the Amalfi Coast Stops Performing The road east from Amalfi tells you immediately that something is about to change. The cliff face loosens its grip on the sea. The terraced lemon groves flatten into something more…
Positively, Positano
The boats were already out when I got down to the water. Not fishing, not yet, just sitting there in the pink light with their ropes slack, Carpielene and Coilaboha and the others, names painted on hulls that had clearly…
Victoria’s Complete Guide To Positano, Italy
What to book before you come Positano is vertical, expensive and worth it, and the two things I would spend money on both start at the jetty. Everything else here is a staircase and staircases are free. A shared boat…
Journey into the Valle Delle Ferriere
The room had a green tiled floor.
With Love, From Ravello
The piazza was empty when I arrived. A café table stood in the centre of the square, two chairs pulled slightly apart as though someone had just left. The cathedral behind it was catching the first real light of the…
Victoria’s Complete Guide To Ravello, Italy
What to book before you come Ravello sits three hundred and fifty metres above the coast and is reached by a bus up a series of hairpins, which is why it is quiet when Positano is not. Almost nothing here…
Victoria’s Complete Guide To Capri
White cliffs. Blue water. The most photographed island in Italy and somehow still worth every photograph. What to book before you come Capri is an island whose coastline is the whole point of it, and you cannot see that coastline…
Capri Is For Lovers – A Private Boat Tour
Capri Is for Lovers The first time I came to Capri, I was small enough that my father carried me up the steps from the marina. He carried me until I asked him not to, and I remember the moment…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Atrani, Amalfi Coast
The smallest town in Italy. The least photographed mile of the most photographed coastline in the world. A beach that still belongs to the people who live above it. What to book before you come Atrani is the smallest town…
Atrani Beach Club, Amalfi Coast
A journal entry by Victoria Van Der Berg The pebbles are dark here. That is the first thing. On the other side of the headland, they are pale grey, almost white, the kind that photograph well and end up on…
Lido Capo di Conca: The Best Cliff Lido on the Amalfi Coast
Conca dei Marini What is a cliff Lido? It is an outdoor swimming area or beach club built directly into, below, or along a seaside cliff. The road does not go all the way down. This is the first thing…
