There are cities you visit and cities you surrender to, and Venice has only ever belonged to the second kind. You cannot stride here. There are no cars to catch, no straight lines to follow, no way to be anywhere…
Supporting Guide
Where to Eat in Venice
The first time I ate in Venice I did it wrong. I sat down at a table with a view of a canal, ordered something that arrived lukewarm, and paid too much for the privilege. The second time, an old…
How to Get to Venice
Venice is easier to reach than its dreamlike remove suggests. The city sits out in its lagoon with no roads inside it, which sounds like a puzzle until you understand the simple rule that governs every arrival: at some point,…
The Best Time to Visit Venice
Venice has a real season, and choosing the right slice of it makes an enormous difference. The city is small, low-lying and hemmed in by water, which means the weather and the crowds are not abstractions you read about in…
The Best Photo Spots in Venice
Venice may be the most photographed city on earth, and it still never quite disappoints, though the images everyone loves are rarely from the obvious spot, and almost never from the middle of the day. I have carried a camera…
The Best Day Trips from Verona
One of the quiet joys of Verona is how much lies within easy reach of it. The city sits at a crossroads of the north, on the high-speed line between Milan and Venice, a half-hour from Lake Garda, with vineyards…
The Best Photo Spots in Verona
Verona is one of those cities that photographs almost by accident, all warm marble and red brick and a green river looping through the middle of it, but the truly memorable images take a little knowing, the right corner at…
The Best Time to Visit Verona
Verona has a different face for every season, and the right time to come depends entirely on what you want the trip to be. For an opera under the stars there is only one window. For mild days and thin…
How to Get to Verona
Verona is one of the easiest cities in Italy to reach, which is part of why it makes such a good base for the north. It sits squarely on the high-speed railway between Milan and Venice, it has its own…
A Verona Itinerary: One to Four Days
Verona is a city that rewards a plan only so that you can then abandon it. Everything worth seeing sits inside one loop of the river, so the point of an itinerary here is not to march but to sequence…
Where to Eat in Verona
Verona eats the way it lives, warmly and without fuss, on food tied so closely to the land and the river that you could almost draw a map of the region from a few good dinners. This is the capital…
Where to Stay in Verona
Where you sleep in Verona matters more than in most cities, because the whole pleasure of the place is its early mornings and late evenings, the Arena at dawn before the crowds and the squares at midnight after them. Stay…
