Portofino is tiny, and that is precisely what makes it so photogenic. The whole village folds around a single deep-green harbour, the pastel houses stacked so tightly they seem to lean on one another, and everything you might want to…
Archives for July 2026
The Best Things to Do in Portofino
The trick with Portofino is that it is tiny, and knowing this changes everything about how you spend your time. The village wraps around a single small harbour, and you can walk from one end of it to the other…
How to Get to Portofino (and Get Around)
Portofino is small, so small that the question of how to reach it matters more than the map suggests. There is no motorway exit with its name on it, no airport, no train station of its own. The village sits…
Portofino – the Third Day
When I woke this morning, I decided not to chase anything. The sea would still be there tomorrow, the harbour would still be beautiful, and the paths would wait as they always have. Some places ask you to see more….
The Perfect Naples Itinerary
Naples rewards the traveller who gives it time. It is tempting to treat the city as a one-night stopover on the way to Capri or the Amalfi Coast, but that is a mistake; Naples is one of the great cities…
Day Trips from Naples
Naples sits at the centre of one of the richest corners of Italy, and this is one of the great joys of basing yourself here: you can spend your days out among Roman ruins, on volcano slopes, or on impossibly…
The Best Photo Spots in Naples
Naples is one of the most photogenic cities in Italy, but it does not photograph the way Florence or Venice do. Its beauty is not tidy; it is the washing strung across a canyon of a lane, the scooter blurring…
Where to Eat in Naples
Naples is, to my mind, the greatest eating city in Italy, and it is not close. This is the birthplace of the pizza, the home of a hundred fried things and a hundred sweet ones, a city where food is…
The Best Things to Do in Naples
Naples wears its heart on the outside. There is no polite distance here, no glass between you and the city; you are simply in it, in the noise and the faith and the football and the fried dough, and it…
Getting to Naples and Getting Around
Naples does not ease you in. You step off the train or out of the airport and the city is simply there, loud and fast and entirely itself, scooters everywhere, laundry overhead, the smell of coffee and fried dough in…
Where to Stay in Naples
Where you sleep in Naples matters more than in most cities, because the character changes so completely from one quarter to the next. A few streets can be the difference between waking to a sea view and church bells or…
Hiking the Path of the Gods Above Positano
If you do one walk on the entire Amalfi Coast, make it the Path of the Gods, the Sentiero degli Dei, a high mountain trail that runs along the cliffs between the village of Bomerano and the hamlet of Nocelle…
