Venice diary, entry 5 of 5 Venice, a last morning, mid-August. The heat was already in the stones by eight, and I left the room with the shutters half-open behind me, the way you do when you mean to come…
Veneto
Venice – The Most Serene
Venice diary, entry 4 of 5 I practised early again, before the light had found its way down into the canal, playing quietly by the open window until the first delivery boats began to move below and the city cleared…
Venice – The Painted Islands
Venice diary, entry 3 of 5 I practised the violin again before the city was properly awake, this time on a small wooden altana above the rooftops, one of those improbable platforms the Venetians built centuries ago so their women…
Venice – City of Lovers
Venice diary, entry 2 of 5 I practise the violin before I do anything else, wherever I happen to wake, and this morning I played at a window thrown open over a canal so narrow I could almost have passed…
Venice – A Candle On The Water
I came into the light rather than out of it, which somehow seems the right way to arrive at an evening in Venice. It was late afternoon, that hour when the sun stops climbing and simply leans, and the whole…
Victoria’s Complete Guide to Venice
There are cities you visit and cities you surrender to, and Venice has only ever belonged to the second kind. It sits on the water as if it had been dreamed rather than built, a hundred and more small islands…
A Venice Itinerary: One to Four Days
Venice looks small on a map and is anything but, because you move at the pace of your own feet and the boats. That is the first thing to make peace with, and once you do, the city opens. You…
Where to Stay in Venice
There is a moment, usually on the vaporetto in from the airport or stepping off the train at Santa Lucia, when Venice stops being an idea and becomes a set of very specific decisions. The first of them is where…
The Best Day Trips from Venice
The lagoon does not end at San Marco. I learned this slowly, on the mornings when the city felt too full and I wanted the horizon to open a little, and every time I came back I understood Venice better…
The Best Things to Do in Venice
There are cities you visit and cities you surrender to, and Venice has only ever belonged to the second kind. You cannot stride here. There are no cars to catch, no straight lines to follow, no way to be anywhere…
Where to Eat in Venice
The first time I ate in Venice I did it wrong. I sat down at a table with a view of a canal, ordered something that arrived lukewarm, and paid too much for the privilege. The second time, an old…
How to Get to Venice
Venice is easier to reach than its dreamlike remove suggests. The city sits out in its lagoon with no roads inside it, which sounds like a puzzle until you understand the simple rule that governs every arrival: at some point,…
